woodworking box tips
Today i am going to show you raised planter boxes plans lets begins.....
After the material has been selected and dimensioned,
plough grooves on the inside faces of the boxs sides and
ends to receive the tongues on the edges of the boxs top
and bottom. Cut dovetails at each of the boxs four vertical
corners,
Glue the dovetails and assemble the four walls of the
box around the top and bottom. At first, this may seem
strange because this makes the box a completely sealed
enclosure, allowing no access to the space inside. This
problem, however, will be solved very quickly.
Because of the placement of the groove near the top of
the inside faces of the front, back and ends, the top panel
is already raised 1/8". After the pins and tails at each of the
boxs vertical corners have been sanded flush, the four
vertical panels are raised by cutting a 7/16” X 1/8" pass around
all four sides.
You can do this on either the table saw or on a table-
mounted router by removing enough material to give the
effect of raising the central portion of each of the vertical
panels.
Create a lid by cutting a saw kerf through the four walls
of the box l7/8" from the top.
After installing the hardware (see chapter twenty-seven),
cut a shallow mortise around the strike plate, and fasten
the 1/8" thick pull into place with glue and a few brads.
The box is then ready for sanding and finishing.
1 Clamp a strip of wood to the saw fence. This wood will
protect the blade when the fence is crowded against it. Then,
set the blade at a height of 7/16” above the saw table, and bring
the fence up to it.
2 The box’s four vertical faces are framed by the 7/16” X 3/32” saw
kerf created when the perimeter of those faces is passed over
the blade.
3 Chisels, files and sandpaper are necessary to remove the grain
tear-out and burn marks left along the saw kerfs. (This should
bring the saw kerf to its finished thickness of 1/8".)
4 Set the fence 1 7/8” from the blade, cut off the top, creating the lid.
5 Notice the burn marks left by the saw blade. A blade on which the teeth
have set wont burn; however, the hollow-ground planer blade is made
without set in order to produce a smoother cut and, as a result, often leaves
a burned surface.
I have read that a hollow-ground planer blade can be per-
suaded to cut without leaving behind the unsightly, black-
ened surfaces visible in the above photo. I have read that
if the blade is razor sharp, free of pitch, and set perfectly
parallel to the rip fence, it is possible to cut without burning.
But I havent been able to manage it.
I clean the blade frequently, and it is kept sharp, and
of course I make an effort to properly set the rip fence,
but 1 always end up with burned surfaces on one or both
sides of the cut.
This could be a result of the fact that machine tool
maintenance is not a priority in my shop. Although I have
the standard array of power tools, I use them no more than
necessary and never take pleasure in their operation. They
produce too much noise and too much dirt, making the
shop a thoroughly unpleasant place to be.
I have, instead, focused on methods for removing these
bum makes from cut surfaces.
Those in the above photo are relatively easy to eliminate.
Placing the tip of an extremely sharp 1" butt chisel across
the thickness of the blackened wood, I drag the chisel
backward (in the direction opposite the bevel) in a scraping
motion. Two or three passes removes most of the scorching,
in addition to leveling any irregularities left behind by the
sawing process. A little work with sandpaper wrapped
around a bit of flat scrap then completes the clean-up
process.
The scorched areas resulting from the formation of the
raised panels on the four sides of this box are a little more
difficult. Because the raised panel is immediately adjacent
to these flats, they cant be straddled with a chisel. Making
the process even more difficult is the fact that the vertical
flats on each end of the raised panels run across the grain.
The solution? The only one I know requires patience
and a lot of work with a fine-toothed wood file and sandpa-
per.
I suspect that it would take less time to tune my table
saw so that a hollow-ground planer blade wouldnt burn
cut surfaces than it does to remove the burn marks after-
wards. I suspect that Im not using my shop time as wisely
as I might. But there is a trade-off here. To achieve the
overall time savings, I would have resigned myself to several
hours of frustrating, knuckle-busting power-tool mainte-
nance, and the truth is that I would rather spend my time
scraping and sanding.
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